As a Hammond flat roof repair contractor, we clear drains, close open seams, and patch blisters on TPO, EPDM, modified bitumen, and built-up roofs.
Hammond flat roof repair fits most low-slope roofs with damage in a few places. The raised column is the repair we make; the others show when a bigger job fits.
Flat roofs hold water longer than sloped ones, so a small opening gets more time to leak. These are the five spots we check first.
Strainers fill with leaves and grit, clamp rings loosen, and membrane tears at the bowl edge. A partly blocked drain lets water stack up around it for days.
Welded and taped laps let go at T-joints and corners first. On built-up roofs, the felts split where the deck below moves.
Crushed insulation, a sagging deck, or a missing cricket leaves water sitting in rings. Dirt lines on the membrane show where it sits after each rain.
Base flashing runs up parapets and walls. When it pulls away or sits too short, rain rising across the roof finds the gap behind it.
Trapped moisture lifts the top layer into bubbles. Earlier patches in mismatched material curl at the edges and channel water under them.
Debris comes out, the clamp ring and bolts are reset, cracked bowls are replaced, and fresh membrane goes down around the drain so water leaves the roof again.
Open TPO laps get cleaned and heat-welded; EPDM seams get primer and new seam tape; built-up splits get a reinforced patch in matching layers.
Where water sits, wet or crushed board comes out and tapered insulation or a cricket goes in, sloping the low spot toward the nearest drain.
Cracked or growing blisters are cut open, dried, and patched with matching material. Small intact ones get noted and checked on the next visit.
Each flat roof problem has a matching fix. These are the repairs we make most on low-slope roofs here.
Church halls and long warehouses here share the same flat roof troubles. These are the changes a repair makes on them.
Ponds that last past a dry day press on every seam around them. Call us and we check the drains on that section first.
(219) 389-4915Call UsFlat roof repairs follow four steps, and drains come first because a blocked one hides every other problem.
Strainers, bowls, and scuppers get cleaned before anything else, so we see how the roof drains on its own and where water still sits afterward.
Moisture readings across the field, plus a core cut where they read high, show how far water has spread under the membrane.
Wet board comes out, new insulation goes in flush, and matching membrane is welded, taped, or set in layers over the opening.
A hose test shows whether the patch and nearby seams hold. You get photos of the test and the finished patch.
Flat roofs often share a building with metal sections, hidden leaks, or plant equipment. These repairs cover those parts.
Some flat-roofed buildings here have a metal addition or a metal canopy. Panel laps and screws on those sections leak in their own ways and get their own repair.
Repair Includes
When the stain inside sits far from any pond or seam you can see, a leak trace from the ceiling up finds the actual entry point before we patch.
Repair Includes
Flat roofs over plants carry fans, stacks, and walkway traffic. Industrial repairs add residue-resistant flashing and protect the floor below during the work.
Repair IncludesShort answers first. Open a row for the detail on flat roofs here.
Moisture or air trapped under a layer swells into a blister. Small, intact ones are noted and watched. Cracked or growing ones get cut open, dried, and patched with matching material, and we take moisture readings around them, since many point to wet insulation.
Many winter repairs go ahead once snow and ice are cleared and the surface is dried. Cold-weather tapes, sealants, and fastened patches work when adhesives will not cure. Some of those patches are temporary, and a permanent one replaces them when spring temperatures arrive.
Heavy rain fills the roof faster than the drains empty it, and the water rises over seams, short flashing, and penetrations. Clogged drains, low spots, and open laps are the usual causes. We check drain flow, flashing heights, and seams on the section above the leak.
First comes the reason water sits there: a blocked drain, a sagging deck, crushed insulation, or poor slope. We clear the drain, replace damaged board, and add tapered insulation or a cricket. Fixing the low spot ends the extra weight and wear on that part of the membrane.
Repair fits when the damage sits in a few areas and the rest of the roof is dry. Replacement starts to make sense when leaks keep returning, insulation is wet across wide areas, or the roof is near the end of its life. A moisture scan settles which one applies.
Send the address and a photo of where water sits or drips. We check the drains, find the wet area, and price the repair.